Unlock Paris: 75005

There has been something of a small-plate trend over the last couple of years in Paris, but the concept is neither new nor uniquely European. Trying out (and loving) new South Pigalle Japanese tapas joint Ito led us to rediscovering established Left Bank restaurant Lengué, which is also an Izakaya - a Japanese drinking specialist serving small sharing plates - with ex-Robuchon chef Katsutoshi Kondi heading up the kitchen. The intimate space with wooden ceiling beams and bare stone walls is on a little hidden-away street - an alley of calm between the tourist traps of the Latin Quarter. On the extensive menu are bite-sized delights such as sweetly succulent Dengaku aubergine fried in miso, light and fluffy omelette, finger-licking good sesame chicken wings, and sautéed squid with ginger (prices range from €5-12 per dish), to be washed down with Japanese beer, Nikka Whiskey, sake or plum wine, and to be rounded off with refreshing mochi icecream or matcha tiramisu. Be prepared to re-order several times throughout your meal as the dishes are so delicious it's hard to resist trying more and you'll surely become intrigued by whatever your neighbours are eating... Book ahead and come with a big appetite.

Lengué
31 rue de la Parcheminerie, 75005 Paris
Open Tues-Sat, 12-3pm; 7-11pm.
Tel: 01 46 33 75 10

Onion Soup revisted by Yanick Alléno

Star chef Yannick Alléno has opened his first Paris bistro, Le Terroir Parisien, in the city's fifth arrondissement. The restaurant, a stylish antithesis to the nearby tourist trap eateries of the tacky Place Monge, is the Michelin-starred chef's homage to his home town of Paris and the surrounding Ile de France region.

Matelote "Bougival"

In a modern space with clean lines of warm-toned wood, dominated by a central bar and looking onto the kitchen, suits and gastronomes alike dine on traditional dishes from the Paris region, revisited by the chef and composed of locally-sourced produce. Snack on a simple croque-monsieur (€10) at the counter, or savour the deconstructed onion soup, poetically entitled "Aux Petits Oignons, ma gratinée des Halles" (€7), composed of an onion, gruyere and croutons in a bowl, over which the diner pours a jug of hot stock to create the soup. Simple, seasonal dishes, such as radishes and butter, also feature strongly on the menu - after all, to support the locavore movement, produce must be in season. Plats de résistance currently include skate in a beurre noisette and caper sauce (€18), or the interesting Matelote "Bougival" (€19), a dish from the history books featuring two types of white fish in a red wine and mushroom sauce.

Desserts include the not-sickly-but-just-sweet-enough St Honoré with its vanilla cream filled puff pastry, and the rich and comforting Brioche Perdue with vanilla icecream. For those without a sweet tooth, the generous cheese plate is worth trying for the black brie alone - an aged, hard brie that came about as a result of a forgetful cheesemaker. There is also an excellent wine selection and a choice of very reasonably priced wines by the glass (we tried an oaky Chardonnay at under €3 a pop). Service is excellent - professional and friendly, without being overfamiliar or pushy - and the setting has a perfect balance of casual and special, thanks in part to the service and in part to the interesting architecture.

Brioche Perdue

St Honoré

A great address for traditional yet interesting French food - and at around €35 a head, it's a thoroughly affordable way to sample the cuisine of a Michelin-starred chef (Alléno's other Parisian address, the restaurant at Le Meurice, is likely to melt your credit card).

Le Terroir Parisien

20 rue Saint Victor, 75005 Paris

01 44 31 54 54

Open daily from breakfast until dinner; brunch on Sundays

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Léngué - Japanese Tapas in the Latin Quarter

Le Terroir Parisien